A substantial increase in the number of tourists and tourist ships to the Antarctic has become apparent over the past couple of years.

These expeditions are conducted to allow people from all over the world the opportunity to explore Antarctica’s historical sites and abundant wildlife. But Antarctica has harsh weather conditions-it’s the coldest, driest and windiest place on earth.

And with Antarctica being designated “a natural reserve, devoted to peace and science,” there are numerous rules, regulations and legislation that has to be adhered to by any visitors to the continent or its surrounding waters.

New Zealand has a long standing national interest in the southern continent:

• we formally asserted sovereignty over the Ross Dependency in 1923, and
• we became one of the original signatories of the 1959 Antarctic Treaty.

New Zealand continues to be proactive towards the continent by maintaining Scott Base, conducting P-3 Orion patrols over the Ross Sea and being directly involved with the tourist, scientific research and fishing vessels which voyage south in our region.

As part of New Zealand’s policy, there is a requirement for a national representative to accompany all tourist vessels which visit the Ross Sea region. Usually the NZ Government Representative is a member of either the Department of Conservation (DoC) or the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade. However, for the 2008/09 Antarctic tourist season the RNZN was asked to fill this position onboard a 71m Russian ice-strengthened vessel, the Spirit of Enderby, or otherwise known as Professor Khromov. The expedition voyage occurred between 12 January–9 February this year, with the ship scheduled to visit the Sub-Antarctic Islands and the Antarctic continent itself.

Before I could undertake this role, I was required to complete the snow survival course run by the RNZAF. The course was conducted in the vicinity of Arthur’s Pass, and primarily focused on familiarisation of the essential equipment necessary to aid survival when operating in extremely cold environmental conditions. This is an important course for RNZAF personnel who operate the P-3 Orions and C-130 Hercules on the flights down to the Antarctic each season.

In addition to the survival course, and as part of the preparation required for my role as a National Representative, I also attended the Antarctic Waters Operations Course. This is held at the Chilean Navy Maritime Instruction Centre (CIMAR) in Valparaiso, Chile, and it was the first time a New Zealand delegate was invited to attend. The aim of the course was to gain an increased knowledge of Antarctic navigation and wider operations in the Antarctic region. Personnel from countries with an interest in Antarctica attended the course—from Argentina, USA, UK, Uruguay and South Africa as well as Chile. Guest speakers came from diverse backgrounds such as the Argentine Navy and the Canadian Coast Guard.

The Antarctic Waters Operations Course emphasised the significance of the additional information mariners need to be aware of when navigating in ice-laden waters. We discussed past disasters which had occurred—in the Antarctic and in Arctic waters—and how they could have been prevented. This course will most definitely benefit our naval personnel with the upcoming commissioning of the new ice strengthened Offshore Patrol Vessels, and their capability to operate in Antarctic waters.

After those two courses, along with briefings from DoC and MFAT on policy and legislation, all preparations were completed for me to assume the role as the ‘Government Representative’ in the Sub-Antarctic Islands on behalf of DoC, and acting as a ‘General Inspector’ in Antarctica for MFAT. These two roles are different;

The Government Representative for DoC ensures the operator of a vessel complies with all legislation which is currently in force for that region, and ensures strict quarantine measures are adhered to. As a National Representative for MFAT in Antarctica, I was required:

• to observe and report on whether legislation, permits and ministerial directions were complied with;
• to observe that quarantine measures were adhered to; and
• to monitor that illegal fishing activity in the Ross Sea region is identified and reported.

In conjunction with these roles, I collected specific information on behalf of Antarctic NZ, which is used to assess whether tourism is having an adverse impact on the Antarctic environment, flora and fauna.

The expedition in Spirit of Enderby departed from Bluff with 48 passengers, 8 expedition staff and 24 Russian crew. Visits to The Snares, Enderby Island, Auckland Island and Macquarie Island were followed by crossing the Antarctic Circle—which we toasted with a glass of mulled wine. Jolting movements and crunching sounds under the bow sparked excitement as the ship entered the start of the pack ice, which also brought calmer waters (a welcome feeling for some of the passengers). We sighted many icebergs and on arrival at the southern continent the treacherous winds were a not-so-gentle reminder of what part of the world we were in.

We landed on the continent at Terra Nova Bay, home to the Italian Mario Zuchelli Station, and at the historic hut on Cape Adare. We also visited some offshore Antarctic islands—Inexpressible Island and Franklin Island. The density of the pack ice guarding the entrance to McMurdo Sound meant our expedition could go only as far south as the Ross Ice Shelf. It was here that we had the opportunity for passengers to experience how cold sub-zero waters really are. A few of us took the plunge and joined the penguins for a swim!

As the ship departed the ice north-bound, we all got to experience what the Southern Ocean is all about—very rough seas. The majority of people did not venture far from their cabins, except to obtain some plain, dry crackers! One last stop was made at Campbell Island as the ship returned to Bluff, allowing passengers to step foot on dry land and have a break, as some still hadn’t acquired their sea legs.

Two weeks before our arrival, Te Kaha had delivered construction materials to DoC workers on Campbell Island. This allowed the boardwalks to be extended and therefore the opportunity for our visitors to walk the new tracks. The DoC workers were very positive about the RNZN’s involvement, and the reaction from passengers indicated that both DoC and the RNZN contribution to the construction of the new boardwalk was appreciated.

This opportunity for me to be part of the National Representative programme was an unforgettable experience, and highlighted to me that the Southern Ocean in particular can be unforgiving. And sailing amongst sea ice adds a different dimension to the art of navigation, something which many mariners may never get the chance to experience.

Lt Sandra Dron